On a Holy Piligrimage by Road - Puri

It all started in June with Rudra and a few of our friends trying to plan a weekend trip. Destinations were considered and rejected due to various reasons like the weather or distance or cost or availability. Our friends could not make it, but Rudra and I did manage to go visit Bawali where we had a fantastic two days.

But then four of us decided to make it to Puri via road. Initially another family was supposed to join in, but they dropped out due to work reasons, and it was just Sourav, Pouloumi, Rudra, and me, in our red Maruti Swift. The time to Puri by car took us approximately 10 hours with three breaks and a few detours due to construction etc. The roads, NH16, and NH 316 are smooth as butter and the views are breathtaking. The two budding  ornithologists spotted some interesting birds on the way like the Indian Roller, Drongo, a white Falcon, black shouldered kite, and others.

Breakfast was at A-1 Dhaba just after Kharagpur, and the food was good. We had puri and soya bean curry. After a visually stunning long long drive, we reached our destination, Victoria Club Hotel Puri at about 5 pm. The hotel itself is strategically located just on Marine Drive and you can see the sea

from almost all the rooms. Right now I sit on the balcony of my room, looking at the waves from time to time, while I write. For me, this is a place I can stay forever.

The food at the hotel is also good, though they take a little long to provide room service. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the staff friendly and helpful. All in all, a good option to stay, though I must warn you to book well in advance, as the demand sky rockets most of the time.

After freshening up and having a high tea, we walked down to the beach, and aborbed the beautyof the sea at night. Rudra and Sourav went on to enjoy a drink or two, while Poulomi and I, tired out by the long drive, fell asleep.

Saturday morning was reserved for a pilgrimage to the Jaganaath Temple. Kudos to Poulomi and Sourav for arranging for the most helpful Raj Panda who took us into the temple premises, gave us the grand tour, arranged for prasad and bhog, and told us many a myth and tradition about this ancient Hindu temple.

The most striking story is that of the “Nobokolebor” which is when the idol discards the old body and enters a new one. This happens every 12 years or so, when there are two Ashar months in the Bengali calendar. The priests receive instructions in their dreams, and go out in search of  neem trees that smell of sandalwood and have snakes living in them, with no bird nests. The barks have to have the symbols of the Gods, Jagannath, Balaram, Subhadra and Sudarshan (chakra, which is a weapon, but in Kali Yug has separated out as a pillar and is worshipped separately). Once these four trees are found, a puja is performed, and the snakes are given milk to drive them out from the tree. Then the branches and leaves are burnt, and the tree trunks cut up and carried back to Puri amidst must fanfare. People of the villages on the way, wash the path with milk and other liquids and perform many a ritual.

Once the wood reaches the temple premises, it is taken to an enclosed area at the back, and the work of making the new idols starts. Once the new idols are ready, the ceremony involves the priests taking the spirit of the old idols in their hands and transferring it to the new ones. No one but whoever is performing the ceremony knows exactly how this happens. After the new idols are established, the old ones are taken out to the enclosed area, and buried deep into the ground in an iron throne and covered with earth.

Jagannath is the only Hindu God who is living and whose spirit is transferred periodically like I described to you. This is just one of the unique traditions of this holy site. The Internet lists other mystic rituals and traditions of this holy place.

After the puja was done, we came back to the hotel to have a hearty breakfast. Then the two photographers went off in search of some good seascapes and I began to pen down my blog.

Some time later we went back to the beach to splash about some and do the touristy stuff like click

photos and get a foot massage. Back to the hotel in an hour, and a quick shower later, it was time to eat the bhog from the Puri temple. Totally vegetarian and cooked by piling one pot on top of another, it was a great meal.

An afternoon nap was a must after such a delicous meal. Two hours later, Poulomi and I were ready to go shopping. I must say that the shop Handloom Gardens is a nice one, with good variety and something for everyone. The guys went to buy sweetmeats (khaja) while we girls happily browsed for sarees, stoles, bed linen, and so on.

Then it was back to the hotel for some evening snacks and a light dinner before we fell asleep, tired out by the day’s activities. Early next morning, it was time to hit the road again, and the best part of the trip was when the two guys could click a few snaps of the coveted Indian Roller. We had lunch at

A-1 Dhaba again and owing to some superb driving from Rudra reached home by 6:30 PM. All in all, a highly satisfying trip and my only complaint is that we should have stayed longer. I am raring to go back as soon as we can again. Jai Jagannath!

In Nature’s Lap – Bawali Farmhouse

Tucked away by the roadside near Budge Budge is a little slice of heaven – Bawali Farmhouse. Just about one and a half hours by car from Kolkata, it is the perfect weekend retreat for nature lovers. As

I write this post, I am sitting by the lakeside, with ducks swimming by, and a relaxing breeze playing with my hair. Tempting? I strongly recommend this small resort, which has all amenities that a good accomodation should have and lets you commune with nature in peace. Bawali Farmhouse employs nice homely staff who politely serve your needs and the food is just awesome. You need to book12 hours before what you want to eat, as they do not have a ready menu. However, that planning pays off when you smell the aroma of basmati rice, dal, vegetables, and a spicy mutton curry with pan to round it off.

The place is full of greenery. It started out as a nursery and the owner, Mr. Chatterjee is a collector of exotic plants around the world. Each room has a personalized name and is a cottage. There is one large tree house for large groups. The rooms are clean and comfortable – and the part I liked the most is that each room comes with a bookshelf and some books. Perfect for a bookworm like yours truly!

There are fruit and flower trees galore and the place attracts a number of birds, like the woodpecker, babblers, oriole, and many more. My husband who is a keen bird enthusiast had the time of his life clicking away his feathered friends.

For those wanting to see nearby attractions, the Bawali

Rajbari and Gopinath Jiu temple are 1 km away. You need to book in advance to visit the Rajbari. The Gopinath Jiu temple is a historical site, almost in ruins, but the main idols are beautifully kept – Jaganath and Krishna, as well as Radha and Krishna.

If you are willing to drive for another half an hour, then the Raipur riverside is a good place to go and spend some time by the water. There are flocks of water birds thronging the trees and the waters of the Ganges soothe you immensely. Fresh fish is available off the river, in the afternoons.

All in all, I must say, it is one of the best weekend destinations near Kolkata. The ideal time to visit would be in winter, when the weather is pleasant. Just remember to buy some mosquito repellent cream and you will be good to go!

I plan to come back here as soon as I can and spend some more time in the lap of nature! J

The Chennai-Pondicherry Interlude

Here I am back, with a new blog, and a different one from the others I have written so far. I am finally starting a “Travelogue” since of late; my organization has been sending me on frequent tours. Last November I was in Bangalore, in April I went to Noida/Gurgaon and now I am in Chennai. Though I grumble a little when I need to travel, I find that I enjoy the new experiences each location and its people bring to my life.

This time when I told people I was going to Chennai for work, the reactions were varied – “Chennai! It’s so hot and raining too!” “Aaaahh! Idli-dosa?” “Why don’t you go abroad?” and many of similar vein. I agreed with some of the opinions, and did not so much agree with some of the others. For me, Chennai despite the heat and humidity has always been a place that displays its Indian traditions so proudly, that I can’t help but like it. I have grown up learning Bharat Natyam and the smell of the gajras in womens’ hair, the stone set earrings, and the sound of anklets all bring home a sense of nostalgia so strong, that I can almost taste it.

The proximity of the sea is another reason I like Chennai, being drawn to beaches since childhood. In my earlier visits to Chennai  I have been to almost all the popular beaches, of which I like Besant Nagar beach the best. Not as crowded as Marina beach, it is a place where I can sit and while the evening away (something that I plan to do soon). In 2005, I visited Pondicherry one weekend while I was deputed on a project for two months in Chennai, and fell in love with the place. For a long time after, I would declare that I wanted to retire and go live in Pondicherry. Whether that dream will be fulfilled, remains to be seen. However, this time during this two-week stay, I decided to go to Pondy again.

Websites make it very easy to book bus tickets online and I booked a place to stay in Auroville as well. As soon as Saturday came, I packed an overnight bag and made my way to the Koyembedu Bus Stand in Chennai. The journey itself was a painful one, with the bus being late, then changing buses midway through the journey, and then getting off a little way away from where I should have gotten off. It was just the thought of visiting the Ashram and the seaside promenade that kept me going. I managed to give my family a panic attack when my phone shut down due to low battery, and they could not get hold of me for a few hours.

Anyway, once I finally reached, finding the guesthouse became another challenge. I have learnt the geography of Pondicherry a little better this time. There is Tamil section of Pondy, there is the French section of Pondy and then there is Auroville which is separate. Unknowingly I had booked a guest house in Auroville that was quite some distance away. It was only God’s grace that I got a helpful auto driver and some good Samaritans on the way, who helped me find the guest house.

Reaching there, I fell asleep tired out by the journey. On Sunday morning, when I woke up early, as is my habit, I found that I was in a dream place. A beautiful bungalow surrounded by an aesthetically landscaped garden was there in front of me. My room had all basic amenities, but when I went outside, it was a feast for the senses. Impeccably maintained, and not a soul in sight, it was the ideal place to spend at least a week. I explored the places, hindered a little by two large dogs who eyed me suspiciously, but thankfully did nothing further.

The only problem with this guesthouse was its remote location. Walking outside I could see no sign of public transport and it was only after dialing the Auroville Transport Service that I got a cab.

It was time to explore the French section of the city, starting with Aurobindo Ashram which is a place of peace and devotion. I bought some incense and candles, and could have easily bought the entire shop, attractive as it was. A quick visit to the sea shore to take some photos and then it was time for breakfast. The hotel I walked into offered a breakfast buffet of croissants, butter, jam, fruit, juice, eggs, sausages and some more items. My appetite satisfied I decided to catch the bus back to Chennai before the charm of Pondicherry kept me there forever.

A few recommendations to those wanting to go to Pondicherry:

• It is best to book the Ashram guest houses, as they are in close proximity to places you want to go to.        
•  If you are going from Chennai, the fancy AC Volvo buses might look attractive, but the best service is given by the Chennai government buses, which are cheaper with no frills, but reach you where you want to go
•  Auroville, Tamil Pondy and French Pondy are different places not to be confused with each other. If you want to cut yourself off from civilization and be surrounded by nature, Auroville is the place for you. Tamil Pondy has temples and shops and all the amenities of a modern town and French Pondy (my personal favorite) is an organized grid of spirituality, good food, nice shops, the sea, and much more.
•   Oh and to get around, while the autos are always there, Auroville Transport Service is another option you might try for an AC cab and a friendly driver who takes you where you want to go.

I plan to follow my own tips, next time when I come with my family here. Until the next travelogue…Au Revoir!