The Chennai-Pondicherry Interlude

Here I am back, with a new blog, and a different one from the others I have written so far. I am finally starting a “Travelogue” since of late; my organization has been sending me on frequent tours. Last November I was in Bangalore, in April I went to Noida/Gurgaon and now I am in Chennai. Though I grumble a little when I need to travel, I find that I enjoy the new experiences each location and its people bring to my life.

This time when I told people I was going to Chennai for work, the reactions were varied – “Chennai! It’s so hot and raining too!” “Aaaahh! Idli-dosa?” “Why don’t you go abroad?” and many of similar vein. I agreed with some of the opinions, and did not so much agree with some of the others. For me, Chennai despite the heat and humidity has always been a place that displays its Indian traditions so proudly, that I can’t help but like it. I have grown up learning Bharat Natyam and the smell of the gajras in womens’ hair, the stone set earrings, and the sound of anklets all bring home a sense of nostalgia so strong, that I can almost taste it.

The proximity of the sea is another reason I like Chennai, being drawn to beaches since childhood. In my earlier visits to Chennai  I have been to almost all the popular beaches, of which I like Besant Nagar beach the best. Not as crowded as Marina beach, it is a place where I can sit and while the evening away (something that I plan to do soon). In 2005, I visited Pondicherry one weekend while I was deputed on a project for two months in Chennai, and fell in love with the place. For a long time after, I would declare that I wanted to retire and go live in Pondicherry. Whether that dream will be fulfilled, remains to be seen. However, this time during this two-week stay, I decided to go to Pondy again.

Websites make it very easy to book bus tickets online and I booked a place to stay in Auroville as well. As soon as Saturday came, I packed an overnight bag and made my way to the Koyembedu Bus Stand in Chennai. The journey itself was a painful one, with the bus being late, then changing buses midway through the journey, and then getting off a little way away from where I should have gotten off. It was just the thought of visiting the Ashram and the seaside promenade that kept me going. I managed to give my family a panic attack when my phone shut down due to low battery, and they could not get hold of me for a few hours.

Anyway, once I finally reached, finding the guesthouse became another challenge. I have learnt the geography of Pondicherry a little better this time. There is Tamil section of Pondy, there is the French section of Pondy and then there is Auroville which is separate. Unknowingly I had booked a guest house in Auroville that was quite some distance away. It was only God’s grace that I got a helpful auto driver and some good Samaritans on the way, who helped me find the guest house.

Reaching there, I fell asleep tired out by the journey. On Sunday morning, when I woke up early, as is my habit, I found that I was in a dream place. A beautiful bungalow surrounded by an aesthetically landscaped garden was there in front of me. My room had all basic amenities, but when I went outside, it was a feast for the senses. Impeccably maintained, and not a soul in sight, it was the ideal place to spend at least a week. I explored the places, hindered a little by two large dogs who eyed me suspiciously, but thankfully did nothing further.

The only problem with this guesthouse was its remote location. Walking outside I could see no sign of public transport and it was only after dialing the Auroville Transport Service that I got a cab.

It was time to explore the French section of the city, starting with Aurobindo Ashram which is a place of peace and devotion. I bought some incense and candles, and could have easily bought the entire shop, attractive as it was. A quick visit to the sea shore to take some photos and then it was time for breakfast. The hotel I walked into offered a breakfast buffet of croissants, butter, jam, fruit, juice, eggs, sausages and some more items. My appetite satisfied I decided to catch the bus back to Chennai before the charm of Pondicherry kept me there forever.

A few recommendations to those wanting to go to Pondicherry:

• It is best to book the Ashram guest houses, as they are in close proximity to places you want to go to.        
•  If you are going from Chennai, the fancy AC Volvo buses might look attractive, but the best service is given by the Chennai government buses, which are cheaper with no frills, but reach you where you want to go
•  Auroville, Tamil Pondy and French Pondy are different places not to be confused with each other. If you want to cut yourself off from civilization and be surrounded by nature, Auroville is the place for you. Tamil Pondy has temples and shops and all the amenities of a modern town and French Pondy (my personal favorite) is an organized grid of spirituality, good food, nice shops, the sea, and much more.
•   Oh and to get around, while the autos are always there, Auroville Transport Service is another option you might try for an AC cab and a friendly driver who takes you where you want to go.

I plan to follow my own tips, next time when I come with my family here. Until the next travelogue…Au Revoir!