London with a Senior Citizen

It all started with dreaming about a Europe tour when I got married four years back. My mother-in-law kept telling me she wanted to go abroad and I have always loved to travel, so we started saving up for a trip. This year in January, I realized, that saving up for a Europe trip would take too long a time, and why not take one destination at a time? So one Sunday evening, I looked at my husband and asked him, “Why don’t I take Ma to London this summer?” He said “Yes” instantly and that set the ball rolling. I booked the flight tickets online and started getting ready to travel in June. We planned a 10-day trip to London and surroundings.

People travel with their parents or their spouses, I opted to go to London with my MIL. My husband had other priorities but he supported us every step of the way. Two of my other friends, Madhurima and Devlina were invaluable with their advice, guidance, and tips. It is from them I understood about where to stay, how to travel in London, and what to do.

Getting a tourist visa was easier than I had expected and the months soon flew by, and we were ready to board our flight to London. But to all would-be travelers, my advice is to read up on London as much as possible, which is what I did during the months before.

Here is our ten-day sightseeing itinerary:

Day 1: Hyde Park and Kensington Palace

We were staying quite near Paddington station, and we walked to Hyde Park the first morning and explored Kensington Palace. It is a quaint little palace, looking more like a large house than a palace. I have always admired Princess Diana immensely and seeing her dresses on exhibit was quite an experience.

Day 2: Tower of London, Thames River Cruise, and The Shard

The next day, we set out after breakfast to visit the Tower of London. It is a huge place, and took us about 2-3 hours to explore. There are so many towers and so much to see. There is also a long queue to the Crown Jewels but it is worth the wait to see the royal treasures. If you are travelling with a senior citizen, be mindful of the long walks and the steep steps going up and down to each tower. My MIL was game for everything. I just took care that she sat down to rest at regular intervals.

We had a quick lunch at a small café outside, and since I wanted my MIL to take it a little easy for the next hour or so, we went on the Thames River Cruise. It is a fun hop-on hop-off trip, and the commentator points out all the major sights on the way. We saw the London Eye, London Bridge, Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, HMS Belfast, and much more.

 

Next we decided to go to The Shard and take in a panoramic view of London. It is fun to travel in an elevator to the 69^th floor and see everything from there. That was it for the day, and it was back to the hotel in the tube for us.

Day 3: St. James Park, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, and Trafalgar Square

I was a bit more confident about using the tube by this time, and we got on the tube and travelled from Paddington station to St. James Park. It is a lovely walk from there to Buckingham Palace to watch the Changing of the Guard. It was very crowded, but we managed to find a spot and watch it. Our next destination was Westminster Abbey which is a long walk from Buckingham Palace but doable and if you have a determined travel partner like I did, and the weather is with you, like it was with us, then you are all set! The queue at Westminster Abbey was unbelievable, and we waited in line for 2.5 hours before we could get in. Inside, the church is beautiful and it humbles you to see so many years of history preserved so wonderfully.

Walking around gave us a healthy appetite and we enjoyed a nice afternoon tea at The Cellarium Café which is inside the Abbey itself. We geared up for the walk to Trafalgar Square and though it was a long one again, the lovely weather helped us along our way. Watching the pigeons in Trafalgar Square gave us a few peaceful moments, and we were ready to go back to our hotel.

Day 4: Windsor Castle

Till now we had only used the tube to go from one place to another. But to go to Windsor Castle we would need to take not one but two trains. We were lucky to be staying near Paddington Station, because that is where we need to take a train first to Slough and then to Windsor and Eton Central. Once there, it is a short walk to the castle, but a long queue to get inside. St George’s Chapel inside is another place of beauty and you feel like you have gone back in time. 

What I loved most though, was Queen Mary’s doll house which is a beautiful artefact to see. The small restaurants outside serve typical British fare and are nice places to have lunch and enjoy the sun. Then it was back to London by train.

Day 5: Warwick Castle, Stratford on Avon, Cotswolds, and Oxford

Before leaving, I had booked two conducted tours with Evan and Evans online, of which this was the first. The tour starts quite early in the morning, at 8:30 AM from Victoria Coach Station and they spent about an hour in each place, except for Cotswolds which we drove through. The tour guide, Patricia was a friendly and nice guide, helping me obtain a wheelchair at Warwick Castle for my MIL. However, I feel that trying to see each of these places in an hour is quite rushed, especially if you are a senior citizen and want to move at your own pace. We managed to see the wax figurines inside the Great Hall of Warwick Castle, and Shakespeare’s quaint little house in Stratford. 

Oxford was a walking tour of the beautiful old colleges and buildings, and it was a bit difficult for my MIL to keep pace with the rest. We managed to make it make it back to the bus on time, for the journey back.

Day 6: Rest Day

Again, when you are travelling with a senior citizen, remember to take care not to do too much or overdo it. So a rest day always comes in handy and makes you enjoy the rest of your trip more. After the hectic trip the day before, we took it easy the next day, and just went out for a nice lunch at a small Malaysian restaurant near our hotel with my aunt who came from Wolverhampton to meet us.

Day 7: Bath and Stonehenge

I was a little apprehensive that my MIL would again find it difficult to be part of a conducted tour, but since it was only two places, this time it was easier. Bath is beautiful, and I am still dreaming about it. The Roman Baths are a thing to behold, and the place is so scenic, that you don’t want to leave it at all. It is perfect for all camera enthusiasts. There is so much to see and take in – the Baths, the beautiful houses, the hills and the greenery, and the town center. We got about two hours there and did not have to rush about. 

The next destination was Stonehenge; which people had told me was not that great a place to see. However, I still loved the strange arrangement of those huge stones and hearing about all the theories as to how and why they came to be there... After that it was time for the journey back. This time we had David as our tour guide and Elisa as our driver. David was kind enough to give us a seat right up in front so we could enjoy the view all the way to and back. Elisa was also very friendly and a great driver to have. I would recommend Evan and Evans to anyone who is visiting London.

Day 8: Baker Street, Madame Tussaud, and Oxford Street

I could not leave London without visitin Baker Street, having read so much of Sherlock Holmes. Seeing his statue the moment I got off the tube and onto Baker Street, was a revelation for me. Madame Tussauds is always a destination for tourists and we did it as well. The wax figurines are impeccable and seeing so many celebrities immortalized in wax is fun. They have made it quite the experience with a short train ride, and other walk throughs and you can easily spend 1-2 hours here.

We grabbed a quick lunch at McDonalds, before doing a little shopping on Oxford Street for the folks back home. There are many shops that sell pretty souvenirs which make nice gifts for friends and family. And of course, if you are a serious shopper, you can go into all the large stores, though most of them are quite expensive.

Day 9: Lunch at a Friend’s

This was our last day in London, before we would fly back the next day, and we spent it at my friend Madhurima’s place. School friends are always special, and Madhurima and I have been friends for many years now. She cooked a lovely meal for us and we spent the afternoon catching up with each other. I ate too much and enjoyed her beautiful house very much.

Day 10: Flying Back

And it was over and time to go back home.  We packed everything and stuffed it into our suitcases and caught the flight from Heathrow back to Kolkata via Dubai. We enjoyed London and its surroundings immensely and I would love to go back someday. London is a special place and really worth visiting.

Some Tips:

•           Definitely buy a Visitor Oyster Pass if you plan to use public transport. It halves your fares and saves you a lot of money.
•           Buy the London Pass for sightseeing. It covers all the major attractions and will save you time from long ticket queues.
•           Always carry a bottle of water with you when you start out for the day and maybe some cookies and cake as well.
•           Have a simple sandwich lunch at whatever place you are visiting, so that you have more time for sightseeing
•           When booking a hotel, try to get a studio room with a kitchenette or if your budget affords it, then an entire apartment. That way you can cook breakfast in your room, or have a simple dinner, without spending too much money on outside food.
•           If you have a senior citizen accompanying you, skip the conducted tours and plan trips yourself, so that you can space it out and not have to rush through anything.

I loved every minute of our trip and I am already dreaming about the next one. Until then….

From India to Indonesia - The Story of a Fortnight

A five-year hiatus and then suddenly I was travelling out of my home country again. Leaving behind familiar places, noises, smells, and the comfort of loved ones has an effect on the psyche - however short or long the trip might be. With images of Bali in my head, and impossible dreams of lounging on a beach somewhere with a martini and a straw hat, I flew with a heavy heart and fear that I might prove to be a failure  professionally.

The first week hit me like a slammer - long hours, resistance to what we were trying to implement as a pilot approach, and more that I cannot mention here. On top of it, like a husband who suddenly decides to divorce his wife after long years of togetherness, my health decided to do me in. It is my belief that only the voices of my family on the phone and my faith in God carried me forward.

A visit to the Dutch section of the city or Kota Tua (old city) as Jakartans call it, pepped me up for the second week. Fatahillah Square was a feast for the senses and it brought home the fact that Jakarta is a place where all religions co-exist peacefully, when the sounds of Islamic hymns mingled with a street disco beat. Delicious smells of fried chicken and roadside shops added to the charm. The people here are friendly and make outsiders feel welcome. There are very few weird looks or hostile glances. Jakarta can be fascinating if only you let it be....

...And slowly the tide began to turn. Mid week was a moment of pride and celebration when our work was vindicated by the local leadership and I started to yearn to go home to a person who despite all our khich-khich, is the one light I see at the end of my long tunnel.

As I write this, his face comes up in my mind and though I know we will have our daily fights and disagreements, it is to him I return, battle-weary, scarred, but with a heart that has genuine feeling...

On a Holy Piligrimage by Road - Puri

It all started in June with Rudra and a few of our friends trying to plan a weekend trip. Destinations were considered and rejected due to various reasons like the weather or distance or cost or availability. Our friends could not make it, but Rudra and I did manage to go visit Bawali where we had a fantastic two days.

But then four of us decided to make it to Puri via road. Initially another family was supposed to join in, but they dropped out due to work reasons, and it was just Sourav, Pouloumi, Rudra, and me, in our red Maruti Swift. The time to Puri by car took us approximately 10 hours with three breaks and a few detours due to construction etc. The roads, NH16, and NH 316 are smooth as butter and the views are breathtaking. The two budding  ornithologists spotted some interesting birds on the way like the Indian Roller, Drongo, a white Falcon, black shouldered kite, and others.

Breakfast was at A-1 Dhaba just after Kharagpur, and the food was good. We had puri and soya bean curry. After a visually stunning long long drive, we reached our destination, Victoria Club Hotel Puri at about 5 pm. The hotel itself is strategically located just on Marine Drive and you can see the sea

from almost all the rooms. Right now I sit on the balcony of my room, looking at the waves from time to time, while I write. For me, this is a place I can stay forever.

The food at the hotel is also good, though they take a little long to provide room service. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the staff friendly and helpful. All in all, a good option to stay, though I must warn you to book well in advance, as the demand sky rockets most of the time.

After freshening up and having a high tea, we walked down to the beach, and aborbed the beautyof the sea at night. Rudra and Sourav went on to enjoy a drink or two, while Poulomi and I, tired out by the long drive, fell asleep.

Saturday morning was reserved for a pilgrimage to the Jaganaath Temple. Kudos to Poulomi and Sourav for arranging for the most helpful Raj Panda who took us into the temple premises, gave us the grand tour, arranged for prasad and bhog, and told us many a myth and tradition about this ancient Hindu temple.

The most striking story is that of the “Nobokolebor” which is when the idol discards the old body and enters a new one. This happens every 12 years or so, when there are two Ashar months in the Bengali calendar. The priests receive instructions in their dreams, and go out in search of  neem trees that smell of sandalwood and have snakes living in them, with no bird nests. The barks have to have the symbols of the Gods, Jagannath, Balaram, Subhadra and Sudarshan (chakra, which is a weapon, but in Kali Yug has separated out as a pillar and is worshipped separately). Once these four trees are found, a puja is performed, and the snakes are given milk to drive them out from the tree. Then the branches and leaves are burnt, and the tree trunks cut up and carried back to Puri amidst must fanfare. People of the villages on the way, wash the path with milk and other liquids and perform many a ritual.

Once the wood reaches the temple premises, it is taken to an enclosed area at the back, and the work of making the new idols starts. Once the new idols are ready, the ceremony involves the priests taking the spirit of the old idols in their hands and transferring it to the new ones. No one but whoever is performing the ceremony knows exactly how this happens. After the new idols are established, the old ones are taken out to the enclosed area, and buried deep into the ground in an iron throne and covered with earth.

Jagannath is the only Hindu God who is living and whose spirit is transferred periodically like I described to you. This is just one of the unique traditions of this holy site. The Internet lists other mystic rituals and traditions of this holy place.

After the puja was done, we came back to the hotel to have a hearty breakfast. Then the two photographers went off in search of some good seascapes and I began to pen down my blog.

Some time later we went back to the beach to splash about some and do the touristy stuff like click

photos and get a foot massage. Back to the hotel in an hour, and a quick shower later, it was time to eat the bhog from the Puri temple. Totally vegetarian and cooked by piling one pot on top of another, it was a great meal.

An afternoon nap was a must after such a delicous meal. Two hours later, Poulomi and I were ready to go shopping. I must say that the shop Handloom Gardens is a nice one, with good variety and something for everyone. The guys went to buy sweetmeats (khaja) while we girls happily browsed for sarees, stoles, bed linen, and so on.

Then it was back to the hotel for some evening snacks and a light dinner before we fell asleep, tired out by the day’s activities. Early next morning, it was time to hit the road again, and the best part of the trip was when the two guys could click a few snaps of the coveted Indian Roller. We had lunch at

A-1 Dhaba again and owing to some superb driving from Rudra reached home by 6:30 PM. All in all, a highly satisfying trip and my only complaint is that we should have stayed longer. I am raring to go back as soon as we can again. Jai Jagannath!

In Nature’s Lap – Bawali Farmhouse

Tucked away by the roadside near Budge Budge is a little slice of heaven – Bawali Farmhouse. Just about one and a half hours by car from Kolkata, it is the perfect weekend retreat for nature lovers. As

I write this post, I am sitting by the lakeside, with ducks swimming by, and a relaxing breeze playing with my hair. Tempting? I strongly recommend this small resort, which has all amenities that a good accomodation should have and lets you commune with nature in peace. Bawali Farmhouse employs nice homely staff who politely serve your needs and the food is just awesome. You need to book12 hours before what you want to eat, as they do not have a ready menu. However, that planning pays off when you smell the aroma of basmati rice, dal, vegetables, and a spicy mutton curry with pan to round it off.

The place is full of greenery. It started out as a nursery and the owner, Mr. Chatterjee is a collector of exotic plants around the world. Each room has a personalized name and is a cottage. There is one large tree house for large groups. The rooms are clean and comfortable – and the part I liked the most is that each room comes with a bookshelf and some books. Perfect for a bookworm like yours truly!

There are fruit and flower trees galore and the place attracts a number of birds, like the woodpecker, babblers, oriole, and many more. My husband who is a keen bird enthusiast had the time of his life clicking away his feathered friends.

For those wanting to see nearby attractions, the Bawali

Rajbari and Gopinath Jiu temple are 1 km away. You need to book in advance to visit the Rajbari. The Gopinath Jiu temple is a historical site, almost in ruins, but the main idols are beautifully kept – Jaganath and Krishna, as well as Radha and Krishna.

If you are willing to drive for another half an hour, then the Raipur riverside is a good place to go and spend some time by the water. There are flocks of water birds thronging the trees and the waters of the Ganges soothe you immensely. Fresh fish is available off the river, in the afternoons.

All in all, I must say, it is one of the best weekend destinations near Kolkata. The ideal time to visit would be in winter, when the weather is pleasant. Just remember to buy some mosquito repellent cream and you will be good to go!

I plan to come back here as soon as I can and spend some more time in the lap of nature! J

The Chennai-Pondicherry Interlude

Here I am back, with a new blog, and a different one from the others I have written so far. I am finally starting a “Travelogue” since of late; my organization has been sending me on frequent tours. Last November I was in Bangalore, in April I went to Noida/Gurgaon and now I am in Chennai. Though I grumble a little when I need to travel, I find that I enjoy the new experiences each location and its people bring to my life.

This time when I told people I was going to Chennai for work, the reactions were varied – “Chennai! It’s so hot and raining too!” “Aaaahh! Idli-dosa?” “Why don’t you go abroad?” and many of similar vein. I agreed with some of the opinions, and did not so much agree with some of the others. For me, Chennai despite the heat and humidity has always been a place that displays its Indian traditions so proudly, that I can’t help but like it. I have grown up learning Bharat Natyam and the smell of the gajras in womens’ hair, the stone set earrings, and the sound of anklets all bring home a sense of nostalgia so strong, that I can almost taste it.

The proximity of the sea is another reason I like Chennai, being drawn to beaches since childhood. In my earlier visits to Chennai  I have been to almost all the popular beaches, of which I like Besant Nagar beach the best. Not as crowded as Marina beach, it is a place where I can sit and while the evening away (something that I plan to do soon). In 2005, I visited Pondicherry one weekend while I was deputed on a project for two months in Chennai, and fell in love with the place. For a long time after, I would declare that I wanted to retire and go live in Pondicherry. Whether that dream will be fulfilled, remains to be seen. However, this time during this two-week stay, I decided to go to Pondy again.

Websites make it very easy to book bus tickets online and I booked a place to stay in Auroville as well. As soon as Saturday came, I packed an overnight bag and made my way to the Koyembedu Bus Stand in Chennai. The journey itself was a painful one, with the bus being late, then changing buses midway through the journey, and then getting off a little way away from where I should have gotten off. It was just the thought of visiting the Ashram and the seaside promenade that kept me going. I managed to give my family a panic attack when my phone shut down due to low battery, and they could not get hold of me for a few hours.

Anyway, once I finally reached, finding the guesthouse became another challenge. I have learnt the geography of Pondicherry a little better this time. There is Tamil section of Pondy, there is the French section of Pondy and then there is Auroville which is separate. Unknowingly I had booked a guest house in Auroville that was quite some distance away. It was only God’s grace that I got a helpful auto driver and some good Samaritans on the way, who helped me find the guest house.

Reaching there, I fell asleep tired out by the journey. On Sunday morning, when I woke up early, as is my habit, I found that I was in a dream place. A beautiful bungalow surrounded by an aesthetically landscaped garden was there in front of me. My room had all basic amenities, but when I went outside, it was a feast for the senses. Impeccably maintained, and not a soul in sight, it was the ideal place to spend at least a week. I explored the places, hindered a little by two large dogs who eyed me suspiciously, but thankfully did nothing further.

The only problem with this guesthouse was its remote location. Walking outside I could see no sign of public transport and it was only after dialing the Auroville Transport Service that I got a cab.

It was time to explore the French section of the city, starting with Aurobindo Ashram which is a place of peace and devotion. I bought some incense and candles, and could have easily bought the entire shop, attractive as it was. A quick visit to the sea shore to take some photos and then it was time for breakfast. The hotel I walked into offered a breakfast buffet of croissants, butter, jam, fruit, juice, eggs, sausages and some more items. My appetite satisfied I decided to catch the bus back to Chennai before the charm of Pondicherry kept me there forever.

A few recommendations to those wanting to go to Pondicherry:

• It is best to book the Ashram guest houses, as they are in close proximity to places you want to go to.        
•  If you are going from Chennai, the fancy AC Volvo buses might look attractive, but the best service is given by the Chennai government buses, which are cheaper with no frills, but reach you where you want to go
•  Auroville, Tamil Pondy and French Pondy are different places not to be confused with each other. If you want to cut yourself off from civilization and be surrounded by nature, Auroville is the place for you. Tamil Pondy has temples and shops and all the amenities of a modern town and French Pondy (my personal favorite) is an organized grid of spirituality, good food, nice shops, the sea, and much more.
•   Oh and to get around, while the autos are always there, Auroville Transport Service is another option you might try for an AC cab and a friendly driver who takes you where you want to go.

I plan to follow my own tips, next time when I come with my family here. Until the next travelogue…Au Revoir!